This is one of those wines that is frustratingly variable and while none of the bottles that I have had has been poor, my scores have ranged from 90 to 95 points, which is an enormous range and particularly so for such a (relatively speaking) young wine. At its best the overtly ripe and still relatively primary nose of spice and earth-inflected black currant offers excellent complexity. There is excellent richness and power to the big-bodied and concentrated flavors that coat the mouth with dry extract on the hugely long finish where about the only nit is a hint of warmth. At worst the finish is drying, woody and noticeably warm. In all cases though its seems clear that this is still very much on the way up and a wine that will require most of the next decade before it arrives at its peak. - BH
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